How I Maintain My Straight Natural Hair

My Natural Hair Straightened

I've been wearing my natural hair straight more often recently.  My straight hair calls for a totally different routine than the one I would use for my hair when it is shrunken and curly.  My main objective for my straight hair is to keep it looking fresh while maintaining moisture levels.  Some naturals find this hard because our hair can revert back to curly so easily.

Hair that is moisturized looks and feels so much better after using direct heat.  I still moisturize and seal my hair while it's straight but I'm also aware that starting the straightening process with a moisture based deep condition is key.  I also use grapeseed oil to seal in the moisture from my leave-in conditioner prior to air drying, roller setting or blow drying my hair.  Ever since I added the grapeseed oil to my flat ironing regimen, I have noticed that my hair feels softer and more supple after straightening.  The oil also helps to give my hair a smoother finish without having to use extremely high temperatures.  

 CLICK HERE TO WATCH ME STRAIGHTEN MY NATURAL HAIR

Herbal Essence
Touchably Smooth Split
End Protector

Once my hair is straight, I continue to moisturize it using a leave-in conditioner.  I'm currently using Herbal Essence Touchably Smooth Split End Protector*.  The trick here is to use just a little bit so that it doesn't wet my hair.  I split my hair into two sections and then apply a dime size amount (or less) to one section.  I then use two to three drops of grapeseed oil to seal in the moisture.  I don't have to do this every day that my hair is straight because the oil does such a great job of locking the moisture in.

When I want to keep my hair really straight I just wrap it and then wear a wig cap to keep my wrap down tight.  I used to use a satin scarf but it kept coming off at night.  In the morning I just comb my hair down with a wide tooth comb and go.  If I have curls in my hair then I do five or six large pin curls and go to sleep with a satin bonnet or scarf.  The next day, all I have to do is take the pins out and finger comb my curls.  

I use Grapeseed Oil
to seal in moisture

My straight natural hair isn't perfect though.  I still get fuzzy edges from when water seeps in underneath the edge of my shower cap.  My nape area also tends to revert back way before wash day but I've learned to just live with it.  I usually wear it straight for about a week but would like to start stretching that to two weeks in the future.

*Formerly and currently known as the Long Term Relationship Split End Defense Cream depending on which packaging is available.

Be sure to check out my Youtube Channel, Mitchellzee, for videos on my Straight Natural Hair routine

Straight Natural Hair Talk: Thoughts on the Texture Manageability System (TMS) by Beautiful Textures

My straight natural hair

After spending several months wearing heat free styles, I decided to wear my hair straight for a few weeks.  A couple of months ago, straightening my hair seemed silly because I would only get to wear the style for a short period of time.  My psoriasis was in high gear so my scalp needed attention every couple of days.  This meant cleansing my hair and scalp multiple times each week.  At the time, it seemed necessary because my scalp was sometimes unbearable and had to be dealt with.   Once my psoriasis calmed down, I decided that I would finally straighten my hair.

Wearing my hair straight during the summer heat may also sound silly but I can get away with it here.  In Colorado we have a very dry climate so there is little to no humidity on most days.  Still, reversion is always possible with straight natural hair.  I have been hearing about the Beautiful Textures Texture Manageability System or TMS.  This product claims that you can use it on natural hair to help with straight styles over a 4-6 week period.  After a few weeks and multiple washes, the hair will supposedly return to its natural state.  Well, after reading this article by The Natural Haven blog I'm not so sure.

Half up half down style
on my straight natural hair

The article gives a breakdown of what happens to the hair structure when using the product.  It appears as though the hair bonds are effected but not permanently broken.  So yes, the hair does return to a textured state after using the product.  However, the product also seems to slightly change the protein bonds.  This makes me wonder what would happen after using it multiple times.

Back to curly after wearing it straight

It would be nice to have straight natural hair that lasts longer but I think I'll stick to my current routine.  I use several heat protectants including grapeseed oil, IC Fantasia's Heat Protectant serum and Tresemme's Heat Tamer Spray.  The serum helps to combat reversion while the spray and grapeseed oil protect my hair from heat damage.  While it's straight I use things like Herbal Essences Split End Protector to moisturize and grapeseed oil to seal.  I also do either pin curls or wrap my hair at night to preserve the style.  When I'm ready to go back to curly, I use Aphogee's 2 Minute Reconstructor to give my hair a light protein treatment.  My curls seem to always bounce back just fine with this routine so why change now?


What are your thoughts on the TMS system by Beautiful Textures?  Please share below in the comments section.

Grapeseed Oil for Hair

I use an old Hot Six Oil bottle
to store my Grapeseed oil

In the natural hair world we always hear about using oils for our hair but I'm beginning to learn more about how they work.  I've mentioned in recent posts how coconut and olive oils are both light enough to actually penetrate the hair shaft.  For this reason, they tend to make great moisturizers but not sealants.  It's important to moisturize the hair and then seal it in with something heavier.

In the past, I reached for castor oil to seal with because it has a very thick consistency.  However, it left my hair feeling really heavy so I thought I would give grapeseed oil a try.  Grapeseed oil is heavy enough to use as a sealant after moisturizing but is lighter than castor oil.  An added benefit for me though is that it has a high smoke point meaning I can use it when I use heat on my hair.  Now, I'm still not sold on the idea that it can protect against heat damage, but I have noticed a difference.

SEE HOW I STRAIGHTEN MY NATURAL HAIR

My straight natural hair after
using Grapeseed oil and a serum
for protection against heat

I recently used it when I straightened my hair and I was very happy with the results.  Sometimes after heat styling I'm left with hair that is dry and crispy feeling but I didn't get that when I used the grapeseed oil.  My hair felt very soft and moisturized after using my flat iron on a heat setting ranging from 370 to 400 degrees.

The only drawback is that I've read that other naturals noticed that their hair reverted quicker after using the grapeseed oil as a heat protectant.  For this reason, I also used a silicone based serum by IC Fantasia to help keep my hair straighter longer.  I was able to go a full ten days and probably could have gone longer but it was time to cleanse my scalp.

I've decided to continue using the grapeseed oil in my hair routine for oil rinses, sealing in moisture and for added protection against heat.  I prefer the Napa Valley Naturals brand which I found at a local health food store.  If you haven't tried it I say give it a go!

4 Month No Heat Challenge Results

I finally completed my No Heat Challenge which went from October 1, 2013 to February 1, 2014.  It may sound crazy but it was the longest that I had gone without using heat since my transition to natural hair.  At first, I thought maybe I was going to succumb to the urge to straighten my hair or use a blow dryer.  Once I got the hang of styling my hair in other ways, it ended up being easier than I expected.




During the challenge I allowed myself the use of my hooded dryer for roller sets and drying my wash n' go curls.  Other than that, I usually just air dried my hair.  My favorite styles ended up being braid outs and ponytail roller sets.  These were easy ways to stretch my hair that also gave my hair manageability.

WATCH HOW I STRAIGHTEN MY HAIR AND MY 

NO HEAT CHALLENGE LENGTH CHECK

My Current Hair Length
February 2014

Once the four month challenge was over, I straightened my hair for a length check.  I was happy to see that my layers were finally growing out.  After flat ironing my hair I decided to give myself a much needed trim.  One of the things I noticed though was how many single strand knots I had to cut out.  Not good!  My thoughts on that were that maybe I should stay away from tightly curly styles until I get to a length where I'm comfortable with just maintaining.  For now, I'll be using stretched styles to try and keep the knots under control.

I've decided that I'll probably go another three months before using heat to straighten my hair again.  I really liked how the new hair growing in felt so much thicker and healthier.  I don't want to damage it by using excess heat.  Overall, I'm pleased with the results and am glad that I challenged myself in this way.  I learned a lot about my hair and what it needs, which will help me obtain my goals.

Have you ever participated in a hair challenge?

Straight Natural Hair: Prepping My Hair for Heat

"Platform" Flat Iron with 1" plates
by FHI 

I am proud to say that I'm finally coming to the end of my four month No Heat Challenge.  The challenge started on October 1st of 2013 and ends on February 1st, 2014.  I was able to get through the holiday season without using heat to style my hair.  This is a first for me because I'm known for wearing my hair straight for special occasions.   This challenge taught me that there are plenty of other styles for when I want something more exciting.

In my no heat challenge video I explained that I would be straightening my hair and doing a length check in February.  Then I will see if giving my hair a break from the heat resulted in more length retention.  Now that the day is fast approaching, I've been thinking of ways to fortify my hair so that it will be ready for the heat.  My first thought was to use the Aphogee 2 Step protein treatment because it is known for it's ability to strengthen the hair.  I've been experiencing some breakage though so I thought maybe I would address that issue first before doing such a strong treatment.

WATCH HOW I DEEP CONDITION MY HAIR 

WITH TRESEMME NATURALS CONDITIONER

Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment for
extra protection against heat and breakage

That led me to thinking about some of the things I did in the beginning of my journey when I had fewer problems with my hair.  Back then, I used a whipped shea butter mix that I made myself.  I was also a huge fan of olive and coconut oils for deep treatments.  Another thing I did were deep conditioning treatments one time per week, without fail.  Well, my regimen has gotten a little simpler but I think that some of these things were working for me so I'm bringing a few of them back.

Whenever I had dryness or breakage before, I always did moisturizing deep treatments twice a week until the issue was resolved.  After that, I would go back to once per week.  In that fashion, I deep conditioned last week using Tresemme Naturals Conditioner, for moisture, under a hooded dryer for about 30 minutes.  A few days later, I co-washed and  then used the new Aussie 3 Minute Miracle Strong version.  I would consider this conditioner a light protein treatment.  I wanted to alternate the moisture and protein treatments for balance.  Thankfully the Aussie conditioner also gave excellent slip so detangling was a breeze.

This week I still may do the Aphogee 2 step treatment but then, the day before straightening, I plan on doing nothing but moisture.  For this, I revisited an old video by Patchouli85 where she explains how to deep condition with coconut oil for moisture and honey for shine.  It's a pre-poo treatment so you end up washing it out before using the heat.  The last time I did it my hair was so shiny and soft.  That's exactly what my hair needs.

It's so funny how right now the best thing for my hair is what I started doing at the beginning of my hair journey.  I'm just glad that I'm finally getting back on the right track.

4 Month No Heat Challenge

Finally!  I'm gonna stop being stubborn and just own up to the fact that using heat on my hair is keeping me from achieving greater lengths.  I had my suspicions of this earlier this year but now I've decided to put myself to the test.  Even though I like the look of straight hair, I'm going to go without using my flat iron until February of 2014.  This may sound like a walk in the park to those of you who gave up straight hair a long time ago.  For me though, I've actually kept up with wearing my hair straight every other month.  Sometimes I even straighten twice in the same month.

Of course I saw how other naturals who were gaining two to three inches of growth every time they decided to lay of the heat for a 4-6 month break.  Still, I kept up with the same regimen hoping that maybe my light protein treatments would rescue my curls.  After having to trim some loose curls last month I decided that that was the final straw.  Using heat means I'm gonna be up for a trim so the more I use it, the more hair I lose.  I just can't keep doing it so it's time for me to step away from the flat iron and just style my hair in other ways.  Here's a video discussing the, "rules," for my personal no heat challenge.  Feel free to join in!

4 MONTH NO HEAT CHALLENGE

Re-Visiting My Caruso Steam Rollers

Using Caruso Steam Rollers on
my Straight Natural Hair

I recently wore my hair straight a few times and decided that rollers were the only thing that really gave me the curls I desired.  Overnight I used my Satin Rollers which I originally picked up at Walmart.  Sometimes though, I went to sleep protecting my hair only with a satin bonnet and woke up with hair that was just blah.  It was then that I remembered the Caruso Roller set that I practically begged my husband for over a year ago.  When I first got my Caruso, I remember that it was a little awkward working with the steam and rollers.  I've used it several times since then and it is a lot easier to use now.

How I use the Caruso Steam Rollers

Since I've always used it on hair that was straightened or previously stretched with rollers, I used to worry about reversion.  I think the only time this actually happened is when I left the rollers on the steam base way too long.  Soggy rollers on natural hair = reversion.   For this reason, I only place the rollers onto the steam base for seven seconds before promptly rolling the hair.  I also make sure that my end paper is already wrapped around the ends of the section of hair I'm working with.

The steam base

The Results
soft curls with no reversion

Another factor is there is always the possibility for frizz when using the rollers because of the added steam.  Using end papers helps to keep my ends smooth.  A light serum or coconut oil also helps to combat frizz.  The last thing I do is leave the rollers in for about 30 to 40 minutes to ensure the hair is completely dry before taking the rollers down.

In my opinion, the best way to style the curls is to use your fingers because brushing or combing will just result in poof (and we don't want poof).  Using the Caruso Rollers can be tricky at first but they are a great alternative to styling the hair with direct heat.

Saying Goodbye to Heat Damage

In the last couple of videos that I posted to YouTube, I discussed my straight, heat damaged bangs and how I styled them so that they would blend in with the rest of my hair.  Shortly after posting those I started a six week Wash n' Go binge and wore my hair curly the whole time.  For a while I was fine with pushing the straight pieces back or braiding the hair into a headband.  During this time I was also reading the Curly Girl Handbook by Lorraine Massey and learning more about my curls and how to work with them.  I kept looking at my damaged hair and wondered, why was I holding on to the straight pieces?

Using small perm rods to camouflage the straight pieces

After much contemplation, I finally decided to break out the shears.  I already knew that I had curly bangs in my future so why not just get on with it?  First, I wet the hair that I sectioned off for the cut.  This made it easier to tell where the textured hair met the straight ends.  Then I placed a long metal clip across that line of demarcation and cut.  I thought that would do it but the straight pieces were still another inch into the length of my bangs so I snipped again.  I was surprised to see a small, one inch section where my hair was just blah; not really curly or straight.  The rest of the bang was curling up the way I expected.  I ended up with a Betty Paige style look which for me was just fine.

AFTER
Short Bangs

BEFORE
Straight Pieces in Front

It's been about a month and a half since the mini chop and I have to say that for the most part, the bangs are fine by me.  The curls are in good shape even after wearing my hair straight a couple of times.  I refuse to use my flat iron on that area because the 400 degree temperature is just too much.  Instead I use my Gold n' Hot Curling Iron which only gets up to 300 at best.  I'm also liking the Paul Mitchell Super Skinny for my heat protectant these days.

I do wish the bangs were a teensy bit longer though so that it would be easier to braid them down into a cute headband.  Of course this is possible with a little help from my Eco Styler gel.  I'm also realizing that I won't be able to slick all of my hair back for awhile.  For now though, I'm just enjoying the new look and loving the curls.

Used a metal clip to section off bangs

Bye Bye Heat Damage

Bangs before cutting a bit more

Check out my post on how I treated my Heat Damaged Hair

Finally APL and Holiday Hair Styles

My Holiday Make-Up Look
with Roller Set hair

The Holidays were fast and furious which left me feeling like I needed another break after it was all over.  Still, it was a lot of fun dressing up and going out with the family.  I especially enjoyed finally getting to see how long my hair was after the two Hair Growth Challenges I participated in over at K.I.S.S. 
last fall.

One of the challenges encouraged participants to start using Hot Oil treatments on a regular basis while the other asked everyone to start using a Growth Aid to help speed up hair growth.  I kinda fell off the bandwagon on the first one because since I sometimes have gel in my hair, I wasn't too crazy about applying oils on top of that to do the treatments.  However, I do feel like the second challenge introduced me to an interesting growth aid that appears to actually work.  I'll speak on that later on down the road.

The two challenges ended in December so I was really excited to see if my hair reaped the benefits of all that hard work.  I am happy to announce that I have finally reached my goal of APL length hair!  The top layers are still hovering around my collar bone thanks to that mini big chop I did last year but the back and bottom layers are doing really well.  Since I like to wear my hair in big curls I can see that I won't be satisfied until my hair is around BSL or longer.  Right now with curls my hair sits just below my shoulders.

   I also needed a trim so I took care of that and decided to wear my hair down for the holidays.  Since I've been using roller sets to stretch my hair out I only ended up flat ironing the entire length of my hair once. The rest of the time I was able to enjoy a straight look with the help of my rollers and a little flat ironing at the roots.  My hair has reverted back and is going to be put away for awhile again but it was fun while it lasted.

Roller Set styled in a
Pin-Up Do with Back Down

Flat Ironed hair after
air drying in braids overnight

Flat Ironed Back View

Heat Damage Again. . .Really?

If you watch my channel, mitchellzee, on YouTube, then you probably already know about the heat damage I have in the front section of my hair.  When I do a wash n' go, I just braid that part up to give it enough texture to blend it with the rest of my hair.  My hair just seems to be really fine in front so even after using 3 different types of heat protection every time I flat iron, I still end up with straight pieces. 

My hair after washing and deep conditioning
No curls; just a mess

So, I was pretty upset when I found even more heat damage after the last time I wore it straight for Easter.  I knew it wasn't the initial press but a touch-up later in the week that did it. 

My rules for avoiding heat damage are as follows:

1.  Always cleanse the hair thouroughly prior to using heat
2.  Do a moisturizing deep conditioning treatment before and after the use of heat
3.  Always use heat protectant
4.  No more heat styling the rest of the time (i.e. styling by wrapping, roller setting, bantu knots and braids instead of using the flat iron again)

The first time I gave myself heat damage I broke rules #1 and #3.  I thought that I could get away with using heat after a braidout left my hair nice and soft.  I thought, "Wouldn't it be cool if I could just straighten it now without the blowdrying?"  Well, yes and no.  You can use braids to stretch your hair prior to straightening as long as you don't use any oils which can cause damage when you apply direct heat.  I used a mixture of castor, coconut and olive oils to do the braidout so when I applied the heat....sizzzle!  Also, I didn't even bother with heat protectant and ended up with a piece in front that not only did not revert back, but was straight like relaxed hair.  I eventually cut it off which is why I now have bangs.  This was 3 months after I did the big chop.

This time, however, was a huge dissapointment because I KNEW better!  I broke my own rule #4; no more heat the rest of the time I wear it straight.  I moisturized my hair and sealed it with coconut oil everyday so I knew for sure this had something to do with the new damage I noticed.  Not only that, I oiled my scalp with Wild Growth Oil and it ended up coating my strands from root to tip.  I could have used my Caruso Rollers, to style my hair but was pressed for time and pulled out the flat iron again.  After shampooing and deep conditioning, my poor hair was a hot mess!  I didn't have curls just a shrunken puff ball (see picture above).  The damage looked like it was pretty serious and I was really scared that I wouldn't see my curls again.

Find out how I got my curls back in my next post "Recovering from Heat Damage"

Recovering from Heat Damage

After my most recent bout with heat damage, I wasn't too sure how to go about getting my curls back.  I wore my hair straight for Easter Sunday but decided to use the flat iron again later in the week after using oils in my hair.  My curls did not revert back like they normally did when I wore my hair straight and I was afraid that the damage was permanent.  Was I upset?  You damn skippy I was!  I couldn't believe that I let this happen again.  Not only that, I just chopped off 1/2" of damage at the start of the year which gave me curls galore.  Now I was right back where I started and worse.


What did I do you ask?  Well, I did what I always do when I need answers, I went to the internet.  I was pretty certain that what I was experiencing was permanent heat damage but I was really hoping that someone out there had a magic remedy.  I stumbled onto a YouTube video that I remembered watching by Taren916, where she used the Aphogee 2 step Protein Treatment to help repair her heat damage.  She showed a before shot where her hair was limp and not so curly and another after the treatment when her hair had more texture. 

After watching that, I went to the hair forums and read articles for more info on how the protein treatment worked.  Basically, heat can cause significant damage to the cuticle layer of the hair strand.  This is the protective outer layer (imagine tiny shingles that overlap one another).  Once these cuticles are damaged, the hair is vulnerable and more prone to dryness and breakage.  The protein in the Aphogee treatment helps to fill in the gaps where the hair strand is missing these important little pieces. 

So, the very next day, I shot over to Sally's and made a B-line for the Aphogee products.  I still wasn't too sure if this was all I needed so I grabbed a silicone based conditioner (the GVP version of Paul Mitchell's The Detangler) and said a prayer.  After the application and rinsing it all out, I was very surprised to see curls where there was once very non-descript strands.  The treatment actually worked, but the curls were still looser than before (as you can see from the photo).  My hair was still much thicker at the roots.  Afterwards, I decided to go back to an old regimen I employed when I used to use semi-permanent color on my natural hair. 

Damaged hair regimen:

• Deep condition 2x per week- 1x with moisture; 1x with protein
• Stay away from heat...lol
• Protective styles to avoid further damage



My curls 4 weeks after the treatment.
Using braids to protect hair from too
much manipulation

• Silicone based conditioner for detangling and co-washing

I added the silicone conditioner because the primary reason for using silicone in hair products is so that it can help mask damage incurred by heat styling, hair color and chemical treatments.   Thankfully, my hair is back to being nice and curly but is just a bit more stretched than before with a few lazy curls here and there.  Some people use heat for this effect but that was never my intention.  Needless to say, me and my curls are stepping away from the heat for a good, long while.

Choosing a Ceramic Flat Iron

My FHI Ceramic Flat Iron

When my first flat iron quit working after only one year of use, I decided that I would definitely look into buying something of better quality the next go 'round.  Little did I know that it would be 7 months before I would finally purchase a new one.  Instead of running out and replacing it right away, I decided to take my time and do some research.  One of the first things I did was start looking into styling options that didn't require the use of heat.  This started me on my Natural Hair journey which meant that the flat iron of my dreams would have to be able to straighten my natural hair texture, kinks and all.

I looked at Consumer Reports on the subject and found tons of info on the different types of flat irons.  There are a lot of heat styling tools that are ceramic now but the real question is, how ceramic are they?  It turns out that my previous joke of a flat iron was only ceramic coated which would explain the $40 USD price tag.  The material started peeling and would catch my hair.  This exposed the metal plates underneath and caused lots of breakage.  However, professional tools that used full ceramic plates were priced way more than I could afford and were very fragile.  One drop and crack goes the flat iron.  I later read that the mid-range variety ($80-$150) used plates that have multiple layers of ceramic coating and sometimes even added tourmaline. 

 It is the tourmaline that helps the iron produce more negative ions.  No, this is not chemistry class folks, we're talkin' hair here!  Apparently the more negative ions the better the heat.  Of course, using direct heat on the hair is never considered a good thing but I found out that there are different types of heat.  This information explained how some flat irons give excellent results and also cause less damage while others burn the hair to a crisp.

Of all the brands out there I finally narrowed it down to the FHI Technique G2.  I found the pink version on sale at Ulta for $79 but still see it at Target for ten dollars more.  It definitely puts my old iron to shame but the sucker gets hot so I have to be extremely careful with it.  I like that it has a beveled edge which makes it really easy to do flips and curls.  If I could do it all over again I would hold out for the FHI Platform which has a dial so you can adjust the heat setting.  Maybe one day...a girl can dream, right?  

**Check out this article for more info on choosing a quality Flat Iron**