How Heat Damage Led to My Mini Big Chop

My teeny afro after my Mini Big Chop
Feb. 2016

Stubborn.  I guess that's the word for it because I have no other way to describe it.  I keep trying to straighten my hair until it is laid to the gods and it keeps coming back with heat damage.  Yes, I have now, to date, given myself heat damage more times than I can remember.  There isn't a stylist to blame or even a lack of knowledge on my part.  I knew better and still wound up damaging my hair while straightening it.

I blame Youtube.  We've all seen the videos where people are cranking their flat irons up past 400 degrees.  Well, I thought maybe I could too.  I mean why not?  My hair was getting longer and healthier.  I was doing protein treatments and using multiple heat protectants.  I even thought I could just wear my hair straight whenever I felt like it.  I found out the hard way that those things would certainly not work for my hair.

In the past, when I noticed a little heat damage, it was near the ends of my hair resulting in loose curls.  Last year, however, I noticed that the hair from midway down the strands to the ends was thinner than the new growth coming in.  A lot thinner.  That eventually led to some breakage which sent me into emergency repair mode.  Of course I tried protein treatments; usually the 2 Minute Reconstructor by Aphogee.  This time though, I knew that the damaged hair would have to go.

Finally, I decided to do a mini big chop to get rid of the damaged hair.  This left me with a very teeny afro.  That was in February of 2016.  My hair feels completely different almost a year later.  It's even back to my old length from before the heat damage.

Of course, I'm stubborn, so I still like to use heat on my hair.  As far as avoiding heat damage, here is what I have learned, again.

My hair now
Jan. 2017
(curls are back after straightening)

1. Always clarify hair prior to straightening (A must!)
2. Always use a heat protectant (Duh!)
3. MY hair cannot withstand heat over 400 degrees (anything higher = heat damage)
4. Touch-ups are the Devil!  Pincurls, wraps and rollers only for styling after straightening.
5. Use heat less frequently (no more than 1x per month; less is even better)

I would like to think that this time I have finally learned my lesson.  What's good for some may not work for others.  I know that I sound like a broken record but it's true.

Have you ever tried something you saw on Youtube and it went horribly wrong?  Leave a 

comment below.

CHECK OUT MY LAST POST HERE 

5 Signs Your Natural Hair Needs a Protein Treatment

A few weeks ago I realized that my hair needed a protein treatment.  This may contradict what we are told in the Natural Hair community where popular belief is that natural hair doesn't need additional protein.  A protein treatment is often used to give added strength to hair strands.  A lot of people think that since natural hair is free from chemicals that alter the texture, then the protein core is safe.   However,  there may be other times when a protein treatment is needed.  The following are things that I look for when caring for my own natural hair

5 Signs Your Natural Hair May Need a Protein Treatment

1.  Excessive Shedding

When the hair sheds you'll find full strands of hair with a white root bulb on one end.  Shedding is considered normal at a rate of 50-100 strands of hair each day for most people.  However, you may notice a drastic change in your rate of shedding that continues for a prolonged period of time.  A protein treatment may aid in reducing the amount of shedding.*

2.  Breakage

As I stated above, a protein treatment can give added strength to hair strands which in turn helps to protect the hair from breaking.  If you are seeing small pieces of hair breaking and it's not shedding  then this may help.

WATCH ME USE THE

APHOGEE 2 MINUTE KERATIN RECONSTRUCTOR 

PROTEIN TREATMENT ON MY CURLY HAIR

3.  Change in Hair Texture

This can happen after using heat.  The higher the temperature the more damaging the heat can be.  For this reason you may find your hair is not curling back up or reverting back to your normal texture.  I have experienced this several times and I always turn to a protein conditioner to see if that helps.  If not, the damage may be permanent but at least the protein gives the hair an added layer of protection.

4.  Excessive Split Ends

A few split ends here and there can be considered normal.  It's when you're seeing a significant number of splits that you should be concerned.  This calls for a trim and then maybe a light protein treatment to strengthen the hair and prevent further damage.

5.  You Use Direct Heat and Hair Color

Some naturals are relaxer free but use hair dye and direct heat to alter the look of their natural hair.  These can potentially lead to damage (cuticle layer damage or porosity issues) that can cause dryness and breakage.  

What to Use for a Protein Treatment

A protein treatment can be made at home with mayonnaise, eggs, coconut milk and or avocado.  There are also store bought conditioners that claim to fortify the hair with added protein.  Look for things that say, "Strengthening" or, "for Damaged Hair".  This means there is protein in the ingredients list that may be helpful for hair that is dry, damaged and/or breaking.   I like to apply a light protein conditioner to my hair and sit with it covered by a plastic cap for about twenty minutes.  Remember though, anytime you use protein treatment on your hair it must be followed by a moisturizing deep treatment.  Too much protein can make the hair feel brittle so the moisture will help to balance things out.  

NOTE:  If your hair is sensitive to protein then this may not be an option for you.

*Excessive hair loss can also be a sign of stress or a deeper health issue.  It may be best to seek professional help if the condition does not respond to the use of protein or other at home treatments

Check out my video on how I do a diy protein treatment.  

Aphogee Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor on Natural Curly Hair

When my hair was relaxed, I never took the time to deep condition my hair.  I had a pretty simple regimen which included shampoo, conditioner and a leave-in conditioner.  If I had been introduced to do the idea of using a light protein treatment, my hair might have been a lot stronger.  Since I was clueless back then, my color treated, chemically straightened hair broke off like mad.

I heard about the Aphogee line when I was doing research on how to keep my hair from breaking.  The two step protein treatment sounded a little too involved for me.  However the conditioner like Keratin 2 minute Reconstructor I thought was worth a try.  I started using it once a month during my transitioning period and experienced a lot more length retention.

WATCH HOW I USE 

APHOGEE'S KERATIN 2 MINUTE RECONSTRUCTOR

After doing my big chop I figured I didn't need the product anymore.  I started wearing my natural hair straight once a month and quickly learned that my hair still needed protein.  That's why I still use the light protein treatment by Aphogee.  It is my go to product when my curls need a little help.  Now, don't get me wrong, this product will not bring severely heat damaged hair back from the brink.  It will however help strengthen damaged hair and lessen the chance of breakage.  Take a look at my video to watch a quick demonstration of how I use the product.

DISCLAIMER:  If your hair is protein sensitive then this product may not work for you.    Be sure to read the product instructions prior to using this product.  I consider this to be a light protein treatment but if used too often it can lead to dryness and breakage.  Always follow a protein treatment with a moisture deep conditioning.